Polar Bear Capital of the WORLD!

You probably have never heard of this place, maybe because it is almost impossible to get to. Churchill, Manitoba is known for being the Polar Bear capital of the world.

Churchill is only accessible by train, or air. There has recently been construction on the tracks between Thompson and Churchill. So, visitors have been travelling by air from Thompson or Winnipeg. As of November 1, 2018 the rail is back up and running!

(check out the link and videos at the end of the blog for more info)

Churchill has a lot to do compared to what one might think when you see the size of the town. Further in the post I will mention all the attractions and activities to do while in Churchill.

(For transportation to Churchill refer to my post on Travelling across Canada by train, where I talk about how to get to Churchill by train.)

About Churchill

Located on the edge of the Arctic, Churchill offers the feel of a frontier town with the amenities of an international tourist destination. A unique and accessible Arctic community, the town comes alive each time the train or plane arrives.

Polar bears are everywhere - on murals, signs, souvenirs, and sculptures – and the live version occasionally wanders in to town as well! Snowmobiles roar through town in winter and ATVs cruise by in summer.

The town of Churchill grew from a remote outpost to a bustling seaport with the construction of the Hudson Bay Railroad and Port of Churchill in the late 1920s. Through much of the 1950s and 1960s, the town was a thriving military community.

Set amid rugged wilderness, life in Churchill today for the 1,000 residents (and thousands of visitors) depends on the latest technology as well as traditional life skills. The community melds tradition and innovation in many ways – the multimillion-dollar Town Centre Complex, for example, features interior walkways lined with brightly coloured Inuit wall hangings and prints. This remote but accessible northern community stays connected with the world through cell phone coverage along with high speed and wireless Internet.

History of Churchill

Churchill’s history goes well back beyond that of Canada itself – archaeological digs have uncovered evidence of human existence in the area dating back some 4,000 years. While residents and visitors in Churchill rely on modern technology today, there are some aspects of life in northern Manitoba that are “frozen in time.”

The first people to set foot on what is now Churchill and the surrounding area did so thousands of years ago. It is believed that the Churchill area was a seasonal hunting ground for hundreds of years. Artefacts such as tent rings and kayak stands have been found in the area that remains from Pre-Dorset, Dorset or Inuit peoples. The Seahorse Gully site on Churchill’s West Peninsula and the glacial kame at Twin Lakes are both key sites in understanding Churchill’s extended history.

The Pre-Dorset culture (1700 B.C.) lived a semi-nomadic lifestyle in the Churchill area, hunting caribou in the summer and ringed seal in the winter. They were followed around 600 B.C. by the Dorset people, members of the “Arctic Small Tool Tradition”. The Thule culture, which displaced the Dorset people around 1000 A.D., represents the ancestors of today’s Inuit. Long before Europeans arrived, the Cree, Dene and Inuit had well-established trading networks.

Henry Hudson was the first European to explore the Bay – he did so in the early 17th century. Danish explorer Jens Munck arrived a decade later in search of a northern passage to the Orient – his expedition came ashore near the mouth of the Churchill River and named the area “New Dane’s Land”. Almost all of his crew died as a result of disease and exposure. Munck and his couple surviving crewmen were able to sail home in 1620.

Famously established in 1670, The Hudson’s Bay Co. is the oldest commercial corporation in the world. Originally named The Governor and Company of Adventurers of England trading into Hudson’s Bay, its headquarters were at York Factory, some 250 kilometres southeast of what is today the town of Churchill. From here, the Company controlled much of the fur trade for decades.

In 1717, Fort Churchill was established at the mouth of the Churchill River, and Fort Prince of Wales followed in 1731. The fort took forty years to build, and was overtaken by three French warships in 1782 – without a shot ever being fired. The Hudson Bay Co. reclaimed control over Fort Prince of Wales the next year, but by that time it was in disrepair and the fur trade was already in decline.

Churchill was the home of Canada’s first astronomical observations, made in 1769, and was also the point of departure for Samuel Hearne’s overland journey to the Arctic Ocean.

Modern Churchill

Churchill has become Canada’s only Arctic seaport, and ocean trade came to the town in the early 20th century. Grain was the focus most trade, and one the Hudson Bay Railroad was completed in 1929, the first shipment of grain took place in 1931. In the late 1990s the port was sold by the Government of Canada to American company Omni TRAX. The port still operates today, with shipments coming and going from mid-July until early November. Fuel, building materials and other goods for communities further north than Churchill also come through the port.

Fort Churchill was built established in 1942, and was located around ten kilometres east of Churchill, near the original Fort Churchill; it was established by the United States Air Force as part of the Crimson Route, a proposed overseas route to support the Allied forces in Europe. It became a training and experimental centre after World War II, and was subsequently closed in 1980.

Science also plays a large role in Churchill’s recent history. In 1957, the Churchill Rocket Research Range was established; over 3000 sounding rockets were launched in conjunction with experiments relating to northern lights and the ionosphere. The base was decommissioned in the mid-1960s, and is now home to the Churchill Northern Studies Centre.

Churchill’s economy now relies on both the Port of Churchill and its burgeoning tourist industry – famous for polar bears, beluga whales, northern lights and more, it continues to be a secluded destination for visitors from around the world.

Seasonality/ When to go

Fall:

If you are looking for polar bears visiting Churchill between October and November is perfect! This is because the bears start to move from their summer habitat and back to the tundra to start seal hunting on the Hudson Bay. Fall is also a great time to go dog sledding and to see the northern lights.

This can be a busy time for Churchill so try and book your trip at least 6 months in advance.

When it comes to weather and what to wear be prepared for snow and cold. You will want to bring several layers, including a insulated parka or water proof jacket, insulated boots, thick mitts or gloves, toque (woolen hat), and long underwear are all recommended.

Summer:

An amazing opportunity to get up close with beluga whales is during the summer. Other activities available in the summer are bird watching, summer dog sledding (yes you read that right!) and some polar bears may be wandering around along the tundra. Other wildlife will be wandering around as well like caribou, fox (red and arctic), wolves and moose.

Packing for the weather during the summer a variety clothing is required as temperatures can go from 25 degrees to 6 degrees. A good quality waterproof jacket, a hat, sunglasses, hiking boots, shorts, pants, sunscreen, and bug repellent are recommended.

Winter:

Those lights in the sky aren't light pollution they are the northern lights best seen between late November through late March. As well as a great time for dog sledding.

Winters can be cold, so prepare to wear a few layers. Several layers in fact, including an insulated parka or waterproof jacket, insulated boots, thick mitts or gloves, toque (woolen hat), and long underwear are recommended. Add a balaclava, quality snow boots that are good to a temperature of -45˚ C (-25˚ F), snow/ski pants, and sunglasses to your fall weather gear.

My personal experience

When I was a kid I was lucky enough to go to Churchill. My family and I drove to Thompson, MB to get on the train overnight to Churchill. Once we got to Churchill, we found our hotel and wandered around town. I believe based on my memory, that we walked to the water (Hudson Bay) right away, to find out once we got back that we shouldn't have. You are probably asking yourself well why not? Well funny story about Churchill being the polar bear capital, that actually means that polar bears pretty much run the show. In other words they come in and out of town often. Saying that, that does not mean you shouldn't visit Churchill. They have plans in place to make sure that it is safe for everyone. Just don't go to the water without some kind of protection or a local guide. Besides that welcome, we had a good but interesting trip, meeting many people and going on a lot of cool adventures.

Beluga whale watching

We had the opportunity to go out and see beluga whales out in Hudson Bay. This is an excursion available to all.

Beluga whales are majestic, sociable creatures that patrol Arctic and sub-Arctic waters above the 50th parallel. Northern Manitoba’s Hudson Bay coastline is home to the world’s largest population of beluga whales. More than 57,000 beluga whales gather in the region between mid-June to mid-September.

Nicknamed “sea canaries” for their strange high-pitched whistles, clicking, chirping and other underwater vocalizations, beluga whales inhabit the warmer waters of the Churchill River after the ice breaks up. These playful whales have few natural predators, and populations are relatively stable – only the orca and the polar bear are natural predators.

Hop aboard a zodiac or large passenger boat to watch these intelligent and curious creatures. Listen in on the whales’ conversation using hydrophones and try to figure out what they are saying. If you’re more adventurous, venture out on (or in) the water – kayaking with these friendly sea mammals is an unforgettable experience.

MV Ithaca

'Mystery shrouds the exact details of this shipwreck that eerily disappears during swirling mists and high tide. One version of the story tells how the ship ran aground in a terrible windstorm in 1961 while carrying nickel ore from Rankin Inlet to Montreal. Another variation says the ship broke its right rudder and floundered in 1960 while carrying supplies from Churchill to Rankin Inlet. While it is too dangerous to board the ship’s remains, you can get a little closer with a short hike during low tide.'

Rocket Research Range

The Churchill Rocket Research Range was established in 1957 to launch sounding rockets carrying experimental payloads into the upper atmosphere. Chosen in part for its auroral activity levels, the Research Range was the base for scientific research into the upper atmosphere for almost 30 years.

Operated by multiple agencies over the working years including, the Canadian Space Agency for a series of NASA launches. Over 3,500 sounding rockets were launched from the range before it closed in 1985. Akjuit Aerospace temporarily reinvigorated the range from 1994 to 1998 and renamed it Space Port Canada. The site’s overall significance led to a National Historic Site of Canada designation.

Miss Piggy Plane Wreck

Miss Piggy is a Curtiss C-46 freight plane owned by Lamb Air. On a 1979 flight, the plane developed engine trouble during its approach to the runway and managed to land among the rocks without a fatality.

Called “Miss Piggy” for her cargo capacity and for once carrying a load of pigs. The downed plane can be reached by venturing down a scenic back road skirting the shore of Hudson Bay.

Prince of Whales Fort

Across the Churchill River on the west peninsula, lies Prince of Wales Fort National Historic Site of Canada. a huge stone fortress built by the Hudson’s Bay Company in the 1700's to protect their interests in the fur trade. It took over 40 years to build this fortification that signifies the French-English struggle on Hudson Bay for control of the fur trade.

Licensed guides tell the story of the rivalry, the lives of men who lived there, and point out the details of the cannon embrasures, thick walls, and star-shaped bastions that make this architectural ruin nationally significant. Plaques on this site honour Sir Thomas Button, Samuel Hearne, Matonabee and the Jens Munk expedition. Tours are dependent on the tides and weather permitting. Access by boat or helicopter.

Northern Lights

The northern lights or known by the scientific term of aurora borealis, is a natural phenomenon caused by the interaction of charged particles from the sun with atoms in the upper atmosphere. These otherworldly dancing curtains of light glow in a rainbow of colours, and are at their most resplendent in January through March. Under clear winter skies, you can watch the colourful artistry of the aurora borealis light up the pitch-black nights.

Scientists from around the world have come to Churchill to study the northern lights in the active night sky – Churchill is one of the top 3 places on the planet to see them

Dog sledding

Mush! Feel the exhilaration of flying across the tundra on a dog sledding adventure you’ll never forget. Snuggle in for the ride or grab the reins, either way the energy of a team of friendly dogs is contagious.

Breathe in the crisp, fresh air and delight in the crunch of the pure white snow. Get to know the dogs, who each have a distinct personality, but share one thing in common – a love for racing across the open terrain!

Today, there may be better ways to get around, but dog sledding offers an authentic experience that reflects the culture and history of Manitoba’s north. From fur traders to mail carriers, the dog sled was the most convenient way to travel across the snow, and still is for many locals.

If you visit Churchill during the warmer months, you can still experience the thrill of dog sledding – a cart with wheels replaces the sled. See the landscape bursting with life and the colour of thousands of blooming wildflowers.

The main attraction! POLAR BEARS!

Churchill is one of the few human settlements where polar bears can be observed in the wild. Thousands of visitors from around the world visit each fall for the excitement of seeing these magnificent animals.

Prime viewing times are in October and November, when the bears begin their move from their summer habitat on the tundra back to seal-hunting territory – the pack ice that forms every winter over Hudson Bay. You can also see bears during summer and winter.

There are many different ways to see Churchill’s polar bears. Unique local tundra vehicles, designed to move smoothly over snow and ice, protect passengers from curious or hungry bears. You can also stay at a wilderness lodge (complete with protective fence) built on the bears’ migration route, canoe Seal River, or take guided walks to areas the bears frequent.

The Polar Bear Prison

Located in a former aircraft hangar near the airport, this secure facility serves as holding centre for 'friendly' polar bears who repeatedly turn up in Churchill and pose a danger to its residents. With the exception of families, bears are held for at least 30 days before being released. Repeat offenders may be relocated by helicopter. (When I was in Churchill I actually got to witness a polar bear being transported by helicopter to what I assume was to the prison)

Tundra Buggy

Specially designed for the northern landscape, these all-terrain vehicles enable us to take guests to the best locations in the Churchill area to safely experience wildlife and the phenomenal northern lights. Venturing on a network of established trails in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area (summer and autumn) and the frozen tidal flats of Cape Churchill in Wapusk National Park (late autumn) the Tundra Buggy takes you to the best locations in Churchill to view and photograph wildlife. During the winter, we are the only company to travel across the frozen Churchill River, far from the lights of town, to our Aurora Lounge to view the incredible northern lights. These are the best locations in the Churchill area to experience wildlife in their natural environment, and we hold the most permits in these protected areas.